Purple Martin Pages
Requirements for martins
The Martin Bio
PageThe Habits
PageTips to
Attract Them
Nest
Checks
T-14
MountingPurple Martin
Housing
Frequently Asked Questions
If you like, print this page out and put it in a 3 ring binder so you can refer back to it if needed. It should help make keeping martins a little easier, not only for the beginner, but for the experienced landlord alike.
Also, the answers on this page are using the latest information gleaned from research that has been done on purple martins in recent years. The answer to your question may differ from other answers that you may have heard, but I strive to stay with the latest technology in this hobby and therefore, my answers might be a little different. Where possible, I will state what the old answer may have been and why the new answer is given.
First,
if you are interested in building them a rack for gourds such as you
see here, then you'll find that information here:
If the gourds appeal to you and you think you might want to grow some but don't know where to get the seeds, here's a way to get some free ones sent to you. If you get me an envelope as described, I'll fill it with enough seeds to grow a ton of gourds.
If you're interested in building them an actual wooden house, then there are a number of different options. I have a set of plans for a house that I designed to slide vertically up and down a round steel pole. That's located here: Plans To Build A Wooden Martin House
However, their designs call for a square wooden pole and I feel wood warps over time. I've designed a yoke to convert the house to fit a round steel pole as shown. That's located here. Mounting a T14
One, first and foremost, make sure it is a quality built
house. Many houses on the market today are terribly designed
for keeping purple martins. They are built out of weak
materials and will barely withstand a good gust of wind let alone a
good blow. Remember, this house has to protect baby
birds. Five, 2" diameter round holes are no longer recommended for martin housing. The new crescent designed holes are now much more advantageous in keeping out some predators of martins. If the house has round holes, then it should be retrofitable to the SREH's. If not, then continue looking elsewhere for a house.
Too many times an unsuspecting landlord 'wannabe' purchases one of these houses and then for many years, wonders why martins will not come to his house. If a martin does not feel secure in it's nesting location, then it just won't choose that place to nest and will look elsewhere. Spend some time and learn about the martins 'before' you spend the money on housing. Then, make a choice of good quality housing and put it up. Good quality housing might cost you a little more to begin with, but in the long run, you'll be glad you did.
Yes, I'm afraid there is. Keeping purple martins can be a very gratifying and enjoyable hobby, but it's a lot more complicated than just putting a house on top of a pole and letting them come. Sometimes, if certain rules aren't followed, martins may never come and the house is then taken over by either English House Sparrows or European Starlings, the martins worst nesting competitors. Many people today just buy one of those little martin houses that are on sale at all the local retail outlets and then stick it up on a pole and that's about the worst thing one could do. A good many of these houses are very inadequate for keeping purple martins and the intended landlord needs to be aware of a lot of things before spending any money on these things.
The first thing you have to do is educate yourself. Read, read and read some more. Find out everything you possibly can about them BEFORE you purchase and put up any housing for them. Read and understand the rules for attracting them and why people lose them. Find and talk to people that have martin housing and ask them questions. Look for different styles of houses and find out what the results were. Are the landlords happy with the results? Has the landlord had any martins settle? Is the quality of the house they have good? Only after you are prepared to take care of them, defend them against nest competitors and understand them should you begin setting up housing for them. So many people today want to get into the hobby, but don't take the time to educate themselves and understand the birds and their habits, that they end up actually hurting the hobby. Other pest birds are pestering them so much that they give up and the pest birds win and the martins lose, so please, if you're going to do it, then please, "do it right".
However, Please Note:
No. It was originally thought that a new site should start with the round holes and then change to the crescents after the birds settle in, but that theory is also now old school. It's being proven every day on new sites that martins, looking for nesting sites, will readily accept the crescent shaped holes and the round holes are being eliminated. Martins do not look at the geometry of a hole, they only see a black opening and once they look in, know that there's an empty cavity suitable for nesting behind it. It may take them anywhere from a few minutes to an hour or two to figure them out, but martins are fast learners and quickly learn to accept and negotiate the new style holes. The following links will give full instructions on how to make the new crescent shaped starling resistant holes. For gourds and housing that already have round holes, this link will tell you how to change them to crescents. Changing to Crescents It even shows how to change the new plastic gourds to crescents. This page shows how to add these crescents to new gourds and houses. Making New Crescents
One other note. If you start out with Crescent SREH's, it will eliminate any problems you have with starlings right from the get go. In fact, you'll actually enjoy watching the starlings as they are bewildered at these holes they can't get into.
Here's a couple of pictures showing how easily martins learn to negotiate these holes... Trust me, these really work and your new martins will be sliding in and out of them before you even know it.
And one final note: Since all birds come in different sizes, even an occasional smaller starling may figure out how to get into one of these holes, but that is rare. 98% of all starlings are not able to negotiate these crescent shaped holes when cut to the right size and that's a heck of a lot better than letting the 100% in. In all my time of having crescents at my site, only one starling was small enough to make it in, however, he is no longer with us today. That's why their called 'starling resistant' and not 'starling proof'.
The reason your birds seem to be struggling to come out of your crescent SREH is because the nest level is too far below the 'bottom' of the entrance hole. Martins do not build a very elaborate nest and sometimes it's quite a bit below the bottom of their entrance hole. This is especially true with deep gourds where the hole is high on the side. An easy fix for this is to add enough nesting material so that the nest level is about 1/2" below the hole bottom. If you do not normally add nesting material to your housing, then this is a good time to start. I always add fresh nesting material to all my housing each spring and the birds seem to really appreciate it. I keep some extra on hand just to build the nests up a little just in case they pack down too much. Their constant walking on them will soon pack the nesting material and this is another good reason for using material that drains well. I also keep a raised platform with more material on it just in case they want to add any final touches to their nests. (See below).
Also, one more thing. When you enlarge your compartments, make sure you make the change to crescent entrance holes. Starlings also love those enlarged compartments and will move right in on you if given the slightest chance.
Here ya go. This shows how I hang mine. Let me add one thing. Make sure when you complete the hanging that the gourd 'swings, without twisting'. Although the swinging won't prevent the starlings from nesting in them, sometimes it helps. Starlings also love to nest in large gourds and this applies especially to the ones that are hung horizontally and tied down where they are stable. As far as all tests show, the starlings will take these horizontal gourds first and once established, will not vacate them. Although this method may look aesthetically pleasing, it makes for a starling haven. Also, if there is a starling problem, then SREH's should be added to your gourds.
This one's hard to answer without actually being there and seeing the setup, so here are a few quick tips on locating any purple martin housing: -Martins like wide open spaces, so with that in mind, the house should be placed in a very open area, but within site of your own home.. -Martins hate tall trees. The house should be no closer than 40" feet of any tall trees, further if possible. -Martins like water, (not bird baths), so if you have clean, open water available (a pond or river) within a mile or two, then that will be advantageous in attracting them. -Martins like power lines. If you have some readily available, they will use these to perch and preen on. -Martins like to see people, so the house should be located near your own house. 30' is not uncommon with the average being under 100'. -Martins like activity. No, it won't hurt to have the kids running around or you out in the garden. Near a driveway or back deck is also good.
As far as I'm concerned, NO. PVC, (Poly Vinyl Chloride) pipe is no where near strong enough to use for martin housing. Here's a couple of reasons why. One, PVC becomes very brittle in sunlight. Most PVC pipe does not have UV (Ultra Violate) inhibitors and will quickly become extremely brittle. Once this happens, even just a sudden change in temperature could make it fail and the next thing you know, your housing will be on the ground. Although seemingly strong when new, this quickly changes when the sun starts shining on it for any length of time. Two, PVC pipe has a very low Modules of Elasticity (one of the numbers used in the calculation of material strength) and thus, has no structural strength. Because of this, a sudden wind could quickly snap the pipe. Three, a long piece of PVC pipe is very flexible and the house would become very unstable, especially in any kind of storm. A sudden strong gust at the wrong time will put your martin housing on the ground, along with everything in it.
I am a Mechanical Design Engineer by trade and believe me, the best thing to use for a martin pole is a good schedule 40, (or 80) round steel pipe. (NO, square and triangular pipes are not stronger than round pipes of the same size). Some come with a galvanized coating and may be used just like that or may be painted to your favorite color. It might cost a few dollars extra to get a good pole, but the piece of mind that comes with it is worth every penny.
Want to see the actual numbers proving it... look here... Structural Martin Poles
It was originally thought that the only way a new colony would get established was with the returning SY birds. Supposedly they were the ones that colonized new sites. Plus, it was thought that if you put your housing up too early, the pest birds would inhabit it long before the martins got back. But that way of thinking has now changed. It's now 'suggested' that you put your housing up when the scouts arrive because some of the older birds just might find your site more attractive than their old one and move. Martins have a very strong site fidelity for their home sites, but if for whatever reason it becomes run down and infested with pest birds, it is now recognized that they will move to another site. Therefore, don't wait. Put your housing up when you see the scouts. And make sure you use SREH's and sparrow control.
Yes, and in fact, there's actually a number of reasons for this. One, martins nest in the summer and that's the hottest time of the year. White is the most reflective color we have and thus, reflects the heat of the sun. We all know that the darker the color, the more heat is absorbed, so with that in mind, try to imagine a baby bird in a dark colored bird house with all that heat and being unable to escape it. For that reason alone, all martin housing should be painted white. But there is more; Two, white stands out. Incoming martins can see it from a long distance away and it really helps to draw them in. Then, once they arrive, the dark entrance hole really contrasts the white gourd or house and they can zero in on it when making their landings. Three, white just plain looks good. Kind of like sparkling clean so to speak. When you see something white, it reminds you of 'new and shiny'.
No, that's not necessary. All birds like to have the interior of their nesting cavities dark. That thing you heard about the light interiors keeping starlings out is another one of those statements from the manufacturers of aluminum housing to try and sell their products. The reason starlings don't like to nest in their houses is the fact that the compartments are too small. Starlings are no different than any other bird, they like large, roomy compartments too. But if that's all that is available and they want to nest in that house, then they will, bright interiors and all.
Absolutely not! She is only trying to make a sale.
First, the lady at the bird house store needs to be educated about the birds she's selling housing for. (Or at least be truthful). Mites will infest any type of bird housing REGARDLESS of the type and that includes the aluminum houses she is trying to sell you. Mites are found in the nesting material and since all martin housing has nesting material, then you can have mites.
Second, there are a number of different myths being passed around about martins and their types of housing, and unfortunately, a lot of them are not true and this is one of them.. You'll also hear that the bright interiors of aluminum houses helps keep out starlings. That also is false. The only thing that helps keep out the starlings is the 'small' compartments in some of the commercial houses, which by the way, also works to keep martins out of the housing as well. Many a potential landlord has emailed me wanting to know why martins will not nest in their aluminum housing like the advertising stated and all I can do is be truthful and tell them that, most of the time, it's the small compartments in their houses. Just remember, when you are purchasing a martin house, the person selling it to you is a 'salesman' and will tell you 'what you want to hear' so that you will buy his or her product. This is why we, as potential landlords, have to educate ourselves about this hobby before we begin spending time and money... As I've stated before, this is the way myths get started. Someone that has no idea of what they are talking about, says something off the wall and of course, it spreads throughout the martin world. This is why I say, talk to the experts, not your neighbor and definitely, not a sales person.
The 'perfect' martin house would be very difficult (and expensive) to design and build but I will say this, we are getting there. Some of the houses built by newer and more educated manufacturers today are much better than others. With today's increased knowledge of martins and keeping them, there have been a number of very good improvements in the housing industry by 'new manufacturers' that have the martin's best interest in their products. However, there are still some that refuse to improve their houses and some of these that are offered for sale are absolute death traps for martins and in my opinion, should not be allowed to be put on the market for sale. I just wish there was a 'code of conduct' required for martin house manufacturers to follow, but there isn't. Their 'main goal' is still the 'bottom line'. I won't mention any names, either good or bad, but as I've stated before, please educate yourself first. Then, look for quality. Some houses just aren't fit for purple martins and in fact, even the starlings won't nest in some of them. You might have to pay a little more up front for a quality house, but many years down the road, that quality house will still be doing it's job where as the cheap ones will just be adding to the sparrow and starling slums or the junk piles.
Although I say this throughout my pages, here's a condensed summary of what to look for in a good quality martin house. -First, look at the over all design and structure of the house. Is it sturdy? Is it made from strong materials that will last for years out in the elements? Cheap houses are much more costly than good quality houses in the long run. -Does it have the new recommended 'deep' compartments? Compartments that are at least 9" or 10" deep to allow the martins to back out of the way of any entrance hole dangers. -Does the house either come equipped or have the capability of changing the holes to the recommended Starling Resistant Entrance Holes? If it only has the capability of round holes, the look for another house. -Does the house raise and lower vertically on a pole? Houses that tip or worse yet, are hard mounted are not good designs and you should stay away from them. These type of houses are bad in the fact that they are not easily accessed and the other competitor bird species will soon take over your new house and there goes your chances to get martins. -Does it open easily for nest checks and maintenance? Houses that do not open easily should not be used for martins.
Houses that do not have these features should be left right on the shelves. Somehow, the retailers have to get the point that these houses are not any good for martins and if we hit them where it hurts... (in their pocketbooks), then just maybe they'll get the message. Yes, a quality house will cost more initially, but in the long run, it will cost you a lot less that replacing junk housing every couple of years.
OR
No, as a continuation to the answer above, just because the scouts are through your area doesn't mean you've missed your chance to get a colony. In fact, you still have some more waiting to do. All new colonies have to start somewhere, however, although it does happen occasionally, it's usually not done with 'Scouts' or mature birds. Scouts are nothing more than the first mature birds to return north during migration. These mature birds usually return to the site they successfully nested in the previous year. Often times, they will even spend a night or two in your house and rest, but then will usually move on to their home site. What normally happens is SY (second year) birds usually begin arriving about 3 or 4 weeks behind the scouts. Usually, these are the birds that will begin to colonize your site. Then, for the next 4 or 5 weeks, more SY birds will continue to migrate north and hopefully, they will find your site. If you get word the scouts are thru your area then relax, you still have another 4 to 8 weeks to attract martins.
There could be any number of reasons, but if I had to guess, I'd have to say it's probably the housing. First, does your housing have small compartments? That could be one of the major reasons. Although the housing manufacturers say that the 6" x 6" x 6" compartments are recommended, they are wrong. (6 x 6 x 6 compartments are cheaper to manufacture). Martins need more room. This is one of the major problems in the martin house industry and many are still refusing to change. There could be other reasons, but first, enlarge your house compartments, then be sure and add the crescents, and then sit back and watch what happens the next time a martin visits.
To be honest, there's no telling where he came from, but here are a few possible answers. -He could be from another site that was either lost or over run with pest birds. -There's even a good possibility that he and his last year mate tried to nest in that old site but were unsuccessful and he decided to find a new one. -He could be a SY male from last year that was unsuccessful in attracting a mate and decided to look elsewhere and your site just happened to be it. -He could be a migrating male that simply decided to not return to his original site and decided that yours looked better to him and he wants to stay. As you can see, there are a number of different scenarios that could be looked at and all are just guesses. These are wild birds and there's no telling what they have on their minds or what makes them move or stay, but at least you have an idea of what the thought process is that you have to go through to figure it all out...
I personally don’t see any difference as far as the compass direction. However, I do see a difference when it comes to accessible flyways. My racks offer 360 degree accessibility and almost always, the gourds chosen first are the ones that are most easily accessible. Face your house to the open flight paths and you should do just fine.
One other thing to note. I have noticed that with my own colony, the birds will often pick the larger gourds that are facing my own house. I can't prove anything with this, but just maybe they want to see their landlord and know that he or she is around. It might have something to do with the protection thing, and it also makes for much better viewing on my part.
No, not at all. In fact, I also have one and it's less than 5 paces from my nearest rack and house. I don't see any difference in their nesting habits at all. In fact, the main power and T V cable lines to my house use that nightlight pole and so do they for perching. I have a number of pictures with them sitting right on top of the light. Martins are not the least bit afraid of man's modern technologies. They only know that some of it keeps predators away and that makes them feel a lot more secure.
No, that is not required. Martins will use them just the way they are. In fact, since the introduction of the 'larger' plastic gourds by the 'responsible' manufacturers, the martins have loved them. With these new gourds and their easy accessibility, it's a very good way to keep martins. And besides, these new gourds are made with polyethylene with UV inhibitors, and they're so slippery that your paint would fall off within a short time anyway and now you'd have paint chips in your nests.
However, one thing I would add is a good thick bedding of pine straw or wheat straw. The insides of these gourds are so slippery that the martins will not be able to get a good foot hold, so a thick layer of one of the above will make them feel a lot more at home. I add enough to bring the level up to the bottom of the entrance hole. They will work them to what they want and it will save them time in nest building in the long run.
These are nothing more than acronyms or, shortened terms, for a quick way of expressing the age of the birds you're dealing with and is determined by the plumage. Hatching Year, (birds born this year), Second Year, (birds born last year and still having adolescent plumage), and After Second Year, (birds born at least two years ago and have now attained their adult plumage). Other terms you'll see a lot is SREH. (Starling Resistant Entrance Hole). This has to do with a new type of entrance holes used to help keep starlings out of housing. Another is S&S (Starlings & Sparrows). A short way to describe two of the martins worst enemies.
Or
These questions are asked by a lot of people that have put up new housing and want to become purple martin landlords, but to be honest, I can’t answer them. We are dealing with wild creatures and I have no clue whether they will stay or not. They might just be passing through, or they may actually be looking for a place to set up housekeeping. If the former is the case, then they will be moving on to the site where they nested last year. If the latter is the case, then they've found your site to be interesting enough to investigate. This is why, as potential landlords, we should do all we can to insure that our houses are as good and safe as can be. If the birds think the same thing, then there is a good chance that they will stay.
No, not really. Yes, it's true that martins like eggshells, but this is usually only during nesting and brooding periods. The females use them for grit and a source of calcium which they need to make their own eggshells stronger. They also feed the to the young for the grit and calcium. Putting eggshells out before martins arrive will only attract all the other birds in your yard. However, that's not all that bad either. If they are friendly birds, then they too will need and use them for the very same reasons. My visiting barn swallows love them just as much as the martins.
If you have an established colony and want to offer eggshells, then simply make a small platform feeder and fill it with crushed eggshells. They are easy to prepare and your birds will love them. Wash your eggshells with plain water to remove the inner membrane. Then, stick them in a preheated oven for about 2 or 3 minutes. They can also be placed in a Microwave for a few minutes. Then, after they cool, crush them and put them in the feeder. That's all there is to it.
There sure is. One way is to have some of your friends keep eggs shells for you following the cleaning and cooking procedures described above. You pick them up every now and then and add them to your stash.
Or...
You could go down to your local restaurant and have them save you some. This could be a McDonalds or Waffle House or The Corner Cafe', whatever your local restaurant might be. When you explain what you want the eggshells for, most are more than happy to help out. However, if you do it this way, remember to make it easy on them. Bring them a plastic 5 gallon bucket, lined with a large plastic garbage bag that they can just drop the eggshells into without too much trouble. Remember, it's a business for them and they need to make money and time is important. Then, when the breakfast period is over, go pick up your bucket of eggshells and take them home. And don't forget to 'thank' them...
Now, you got a mess, right! Well, yes and no. First fill the bag with 'plain' water to just cover the eggshells. Then slosh the eggshells around with your hand or a sturdy stick for a few minutes. (If you use your hand, you might want to use a thick rubber glove for protection from sharp edges). This will remove the membranes from the shells. Don't worry about breaking the eggshells because you're going to end up doing that anyways. When done, slowly pour out the water and the floating membrane. Now, you'll need a pillow case that zips closed or that you can securely tie closed. Pour the eggshells into the pillow case and zip it shut. The excess water will simply drain through the pillow case. Hang it somewhere and let it drain until the dripping stops. Now, simply toss it into the family dryer and let it run on hot for about 15 or 20 minutes or until they are dry. Viola, you now have a large amount of eggshells for your eggshell feeder an they're already crushed from the rolling around in the dryer. It's as simple as that.
No. Do not add any kind of perches to any of your gourds. This will only help the pest birds and predators get a foot hold on taking over that gourd. Perches under entrance holes are the results of humans thinking they are doing the birds a good turn when in reality, they are actually harming their tenants. Pest birds such as Sparrows and Starlings use these perches to trap the legal inhabitants within the gourds and then attack them. Think of what they dealt with before man came along. Old woodpecker holes in hollowed out trees. There were no perches or porches of any kind on them then and they don't need them now.
However, they do need roosting arms and these are usually placed away from the entrance holes. These can be long rods in starburst patterns and placed over the housing so that the birds have something to land on when they fly into the site. From that point, they will fly down and light in the entrance hole clinging to the front of the gourd with ease. Martins have very strong tail feathers and can pry themselves into their entrance holes very easily.
Martins are communal nesters and of course, when you get a large group of any kind of birds or animals together, then there are predators that take notice. There are a number of different flying and ground based predators that martins need to be protected from. Snakes, raccoons, cats, squirrels to name a few. Owls are also a major night time predator that can wipe out a colony in short order. The proper guards need to be in place to keep them from gaining access to your martin housing. And, should you use them, absolutely! It only takes one attack from a predator to make a hard earned colony vacate a site and in some cases, never to return.
The two birds below are a mature pair of Purple Martins, male on the left and female on the right. If the birds in your house don't look like them, then you don't have martins. The first thing you have to do is determine what the birds are. Next, if they are friendly birds, then they should be persuaded to move on. Usually removing the nesting material a few times will do it. If not, then close up the house for a day or two until they move. If they are another cavity nesting species such as Bluebirds or Tree Swallows, find out what type of housing they require and then put it out for them. The only reason they're in your martin house is because they can't find housing of their own liking and requirements. Supply it, locate it properly and they'll more than likely move right in. However, if they turn out to be either European Starlings or English House Sparrows, then I strongly suggest you eliminate them, period. Trapping, shooting, whatever it takes. These two species of birds are mortal enemies of martins and will prevent any martins from nesting in your house if they're given the chance.
There could be a number of reasons for this. They could be birds visiting from another site and are enjoying your site a little more than their home site and just might be looking yours over, but site fidelity is making them return to their home site for the night. If they continue to spend days at your site and like it more, then they may just make the switch and stay.
Also, if it's early in the year, they may not be ready to settle down just yet. Remember, these are wild birds and are used to sleeping in trees or on power lines and radio antennas and aren't ready to settle in just yet. They just need some time.
To be honest, I don't know, but here are a couple of possible answers. One, they could very well be just passing through and found your site to rest for a few days. This often happens with older birds since they are headed back to the site where they nested last year. The will often take a day or two during their migration and stay at any available house that's along the way to rest a little. Two, it could be very early in the season and they just aren't ready to settle in a house yet. Remember, they are still wild birds and usually the only time they stay in housing is when nesting is taking place. Three, if these are young SY birds, then there could be any number of reasons. They are the hardest to predict. Younger birds just don't seem to be in a hurry to nest and even when they do, their hearts aren't fully in it. However, once a nest is completed and eggs are laid, then they will start putting more effort to the task at hand and most of the time, they will succeed in fledging young.
Nothing. One thing that new martin enthusiasts run into is 'impatience'. Remember, these birds are just returning to their northern home and it's been a long flight for them. They're in no hurry to start nest building upon arrival. Give them some time. They need to rest a little, get to know the neighborhood and to also get to know each other. We as humans want them to stay and nest, but we want it to all happen NOW and that just isn't going to happen. There are things we just don't understand about wild creatures and when they, the weather and the time are right, they'll begin nesting. In the meantime, just relax and enjoy their antics. Watch them and learn as much as you can about them. Little by little, you'll begin to understand and also become a little less impatient, and before you know it, they and their young will be gone.
They went to eat. Remember, martins eat flying insects and have to go in search of them. (No, they do not eat seeds from bird feeders nor do they drink from bird baths). They will often eat a little early in the morning and then hang around the site for the rest of the morning chattering and socializing and then they are off into the air to eat around noon or early afternoon. Sometimes, they may travel many miles in search of food and of course, that takes them well away from their home site. Martins love to fly and they may go as far as 5 or 10 miles in search of their prey, but not to worry, they will always find their way back to your site before dark.
Absolutely. I do and a lot of other landlords I know also do it. There are a number of different materials that can be used. Two that I highly recommend are Pine Straw (dried pine needles) and Wheat Straw. Both are usually available just about anywhere at garden shops and Co-ops. Others are available, but make sure that whatever you use doesn't get wet and stay wet. The parent birds won't stay in a nest that stays wet. The two I mentioned will quickly drain off any moisture should they get wet.
I'm not a fan of the different varieties of sawdust and chips. These hold water much too easily and drain very slowly once wet. And no, the cedar chips do nothing to ward off small insect pests, regardless of what you've been told about smells and odors. In fact, in many instances, the parent birds will toss these cedar chips out of the nest and then replace it with their own materials. The sawdust and chip varieties of nesting materials are very unstable in some housing, mainly the metal and new plastic gourds, and the birds just feel un-secure with them under foot and they will often discard them in favor of more secure footing such as pine straw or wheat straw or what ever other material is available to them.
I use both the pine straw and wheat straw. Both are very abundant in my area simply for the raking and bagging. However, both can also be obtained at just about any garden shop in bales. You many not need that much for the martins, but the remainder makes great mulch for plants.. I start the year out with pine straw by putting a good base of it in all my cavities before the birds return. What I do is place enough material in the compartments to 'come up to the bottom' of the entrance hole. Martins are short legged birds and are not able to jump very well, so I make it easier on them by placing enough material so that they can simply step up on the edge of their hole. Then, when they return each spring, they have something to rest and sit on for those first few cool nights. Their walking on it will usually settle it down a little and they'll often add more if needed.
Then, around the beginning of nest building time, I place a raised platform near their racks. I then cut wheat straw into about 3" long pieces using a set of pruning shears and mound it up pretty good on the platform. My martins know what this is and readily grab it up and use it to 'finish off ' their nests to their likings. Martins are quick learners and it doesn't take them long to learn that this is theirs to use and it takes them no time at all to use it all up. As your colony grows, you'll find yourself refilling the platform quite often. The picture below isn't very good quality, but it'll at least give you the idea. Don't have a platform... then spread it out on the ground. They'll find it... However, make sure it's safe for them to land on the ground. Martins are very vulnerable to predators when on the ground.
As a side note, I've actually had female martins land on the platform and take material while I was filling it. (Pretty brassy if you ask me).
Although not always, when you find a nest that doesn't contain any eggs, it is probably the work of a lone male. Many times single males (called floaters) are known to build a partial nest in the hopes of attracting a female. If they end up not pairing up, then the result is an 'almost complete' nest, but no eggs. Pay attention to the nest. If you see only one bird hanging out there, then more than likely the empty nest is the work of a floater.
Secondly, sometimes a male will build more than one nest in hopes of attracting a second female. Martins are not monogamous and will attempt to attract as many females as they can. Usually, it's only one, but sometimes, there are multiples. If he doesn't get a second female, then the result is an incomplete nest.
The picture below is of a martin nest with 5 eggs in it. Martin nests are very low profile, often consisting of sticks and twigs and many leaves. In some of the smaller compartments, the nests may even contain a mud damn in the front of it. Although not always, many of the leaves are green when they are placed in the nest, but turn brown after some time. They will constantly replace these green leaves throughout the nesting period. When pine needles, (pine straw), are available, they will often make the entire nest out of them. In this case, the nest will be very flat and compact. A shallow bowl will be at the back of the nest such as shown below. Often, the eggs will be buried under the leaves.
If the nest you have is full of material and goes up around the sides of the compartment, then it is more than likely a starling nest. If it totally fills the compartment with only a small hole to get into and material hanging out the entrance hole, then it belongs to a sparrow. If you want to see what the nests of these pest birds look like, Look Here
Actually, what you probably have are both females and SY males. Both SY males in their second year and females look very similar in coloration and are sometimes very difficult to tell apart, even for the veteran landlord. Pictures located on my, Martin Bio Page show the difference in the colorations of the different aged birds. Next year, those SY males will return as ASY males and will be all black, then you'll have your all black males at your site. Below is a picture of a female, (on left) and an immature male, (on right). Notice the difference in the breasts. The male has the spots of adolescence on his. Also, the male will have a much darker 'cap' and his throat will also be much darker with the beginnings of dark feathers.
It normally takes 16 days from the time the next to the last egg is laid till they hatch. That's when the female starts sitting on the eggs full time. Then, approx 28 days after the eggs hatch, the young should take flight or 'fledge'. That can fluctuate a day or two depending on conditions in and around the site. This is another reason that nest checks should be done on martins. You can keep accurate tabs on your colony and it's well being.
This 'diving' or 'buzzing' is also called "strafing". The word is taken from a World War II action when the planes would dive at the ground spraying opposing ground troops with bullets trying to prevent them from advancing. Your birds are doing approximately the same thing. They are unsure of you and seeing you as a potential predator and are diving at you while squawking at the same time. This is very common in a colony, especially with new birds that have not gotten to know you yet. This will also happen more as fledging time approaches. There really isn't anything to worry about. Some of mine do it about the time of fledging, but I have 'never' been struck by any martin. Usually it's only a bluff, and a condition that still remains in their instincts from when they were purely wild. One thing you can do is spend a little more time under the housing. Do some morning walk-unders or just slowly walk under the housing and stand there and watch them, and although this may sound silly, actually talk to them. They will quickly get used to you and the sound of your voice and the strafing will back off considerably, if not entirely. One thing I do is ignore them. They soon start ignoring me back. The whole thing depends on how much time you spend with them. If you're out and amongst them a lot, they soon begin to see you as part of the site and will go about their daily activities as if you weren't even there. In fact, your birds will become comfortable enough with having you around that they won't even get off the nest when you do your nest checks. I actually have to move some of my females so I can count my eggs.
In recent years, it has been proven that nest checks have become a very important part of keeping martins and are a very good way of keeping track of the health of your colony. The old ways of keeping purple martins are slowly but surely dying and educated landlords are slowly replacing these old time landlords. There are a lot of folks that are beginning to do talks and teach people that want to learn, the correct way to keep martins. Recently, many tests and studies have been done on martins and it's been proven time and again that regular site maintenance and nest checks considerably enhances the overall health and well being of your colony. From nest checks, you can tell when nest building starts and how the progress is going, keep track of the number of eggs laid and the number of young that hatched from those eggs.
Nest checks also help you as a landlord keep tabs on the health of the young such as, are they being fed properly, are there any problems with any of them, are they being bothered by pests like mites and/or blowflies, etc. Predators and pests are other things you want to keep a close eye on and you can tell whether or not they've been there. Also, you can keep very good tabs on how many young made it through and fledged. These numbers are good to know and can be given to organizations that keep track of this sort of thing and they in turn can get an overall view of how martins are doing as a species. A nest check done every 4 or 5 days can do all this and more. And besides, they're fun to do to. Ever see the eyes of a youngster light up when |
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